While in Italy our morning cappuccinos became a ritual breakfast experience. And perhaps our best cappuccino was the morning we woke up in Assisi and strolled over to a local cafe. An inviting barista took our order and encouraged us to take a table. We watched Italians stop off at the counter for a quick cafe on their way to church or work. That morning we realized that Italians do not linger over coffee like I had imagined; for Italians it is a brief stop en route to work where pleasantries and gossip are briefly exchanged. Ritualistic, but not drawn out.We headed to the train station and caught one of the morning trains to Perugia (once again Kristin navigated the Italian language
in purchasing the tickets). Our end destination for the day was Montepulciano, but we had to stop at the Perugia airport to pick up our rental car. The drive to Montepulciano in our Fiat was easy to navigate. I had envisioned us getting hopelessly lost in Tuscan countryside, but the signage in Italy really is terrific. Once we arrived at Montepulciano I couldn't figure out how to get into the city except by driving on ultra-narrow cobblestone roads. Very quickly I found myself navigating on streets that could hardly fit my Fiat. Italian pedestrians were looking at me through my windshield and saying things; I have no idea what. Eager to get off the narrow street I turned down a side street that turned out to be a dead end. And that's when I discovered that I had no idea how to put the Fiat in reverse. So Kristin sat at the wheel while I pushed the Fiat around and we managed to get back out of town.
in purchasing the tickets). Our end destination for the day was Montepulciano, but we had to stop at the Perugia airport to pick up our rental car. The drive to Montepulciano in our Fiat was easy to navigate. I had envisioned us getting hopelessly lost in Tuscan countryside, but the signage in Italy really is terrific. Once we arrived at Montepulciano I couldn't figure out how to get into the city except by driving on ultra-narrow cobblestone roads. Very quickly I found myself navigating on streets that could hardly fit my Fiat. Italian pedestrians were looking at me through my windshield and saying things; I have no idea what. Eager to get off the narrow street I turned down a side street that turned out to be a dead end. And that's when I discovered that I had no idea how to put the Fiat in reverse. So Kristin sat at the wheel while I pushed the Fiat around and we managed to get back out of town.
Montepulciano was without a doubt my favorite stop in Italy. A picturesque hill town chalk full of Enotecas (wine shops), gelato stands, and quaint grocery stands with local cheese and peperoni. Our hotel, Albergo il Marzocco, felt to me like the most authentic Italian experience. The main attendant was a hospitable Italian woman who showed us where to park our car and took our breakfast orders in the morning. After morning cappuccinos we could stroll from one end of the town to the other hand-in-hand window shopping or wine and cheese tasting.Montepulciano has sprawling tunnel systems under its buildings. Some of the Enotecas bill these tunnels as Etruscan tombs and offer free tours. Now these "tombs" are used to store large barrels of wine and showcase collections of ancient novelties (one Enoteca even had a chastity belt).
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